A. Field of the Invention
Various skin formulations that are structured to in such a way to treat a wide range of skin conditions. The formulations can be used separately or in combination in a regimen format to counteract the aging process using Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract, Oenothera biennis (evening rose) extract, a biomimetic peptide, and a cosmetic acceptable vehicle.
B. Description of Related Art
Many factors contribute to skin aging such as the actual age of a person, the amount of exposure to environmental factors (e.g., sun light, pollution, chemicals, smoke, etc.), and how well a person has taken care of their skin. In particular, skin aging concerns two processes—intrinsic aging, which is related to the natural aging process and genetic influences, and extrinsic, or accumulated damage due to environmental factors.
Intrinsic aging process in cells and skin can be related to the function of the protein Lamin A, which is an important protein during cell division as it provides the membrane structure of the nuclease. Without functional Lamin A, the nuclear lamina creates an abnormal nuclear envelope lacking structural support. This can lead to an abnormal shaped nuclear envelope which limits cell division. A muted form of Lamin A, known as progerin, is associated with the disease progeria where patients suffer from accelerated aging, displaying signs of aging in skin as early as 2 years of age, and have a sharply shortened lifespan.
Extrinsic factors can include exposure to ultraviolet rays through sun exposure or the use of ultraviolet lamps (for example, tanning beds). Ultraviolet rays can induce oxidative stress and inflammation that leads to skin damage. The accumulation of oxidative stress through free radical formation, can damage skin proteins leading to skin aging, which includes loss of elasticity, loss of dermal proteins, lines and wrinkles, and abnormal pigmentation. Inflammation is also a characteristic of UV and environmental damage. Inflammation can occur through inflammatory cytokines such as TNFalpha, or enzymes that contribute to the inflammatory pathway such as cyclooxygenase 1, cyclooxygenase 2, and lipoxygenase. As inflammation persists, enzymes such as matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP3), and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9) are involved in the breakdown dermal proteins, which allows immune cells to migrate. This breakdown in dermal proteins such as laminin and collagen can lead to skin aging. When exposed to extrinsic factors such the ultra violet (UV) radiation of the sun, irritants, and pollution, the keratinocyte (outermost cell of the skin) releases signaling molecules, such as α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and inflammatory cytokines. These hormones trigger melanocytes to produce melanin. The production of melanin can result in variations in the color of the skin. For example, a person's skin can have a sallow tone or hyperpigmented spots. Conventional depigmenting agents, such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid can raise several safety concerns (for example, ochronosis, atrophy, carcinogenesis, and other local or systemic side effects) with long-term exposure.
The combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors eventually leads to visible signs of aging, and over time these signs progress through three stages-early, moderate and advanced.
The early signs of skin aging include the first stages of visible fine lines, especially around the eyes, and the beginning of uneven skin tone. Cell turnover begins to slow, and this can have a dulling effect on the complexion. Collagen and elastin—while still healthy—can start to suffer early damage, leaving skin slightly less resilient. If the matrix is left unprotected, wrinkles that are forming underneath the surface of the skin will eventually become more noticeable due to damage in the dermal layer. Eyes can occasionally look puffy, and pores appear slightly more noticeable. Typically, this occurs in an age range of about 25 to 35 years of age.
The moderate signs of skin aging include more pronounced expression lines around the eyes, the mouth and on the forehead. Underneath the eyes dark circles can become more noticeable. The skin's support structure becomes weaker as less collagen is produced, and elastin fibers begin to lose their ability to “snap” back. Skin loses vital moisture more easily, and dark spots can become more of an issue. Fine lines on the neck can become more visible, and “marionette” lines on either side of the mouth can begin to appear. More significant age spots begin to surface, eyes may look tired more often, and pores appear larger. This typically occurs in an age range of about 35 to 50 years of age.
The advanced signs of skin aging include “static” deep lines and wrinkles that are visible even when the face is at rest. The supporting structure of collagen and elastin is severely compromised and skin sagging, especially in the cheek and jawline areas, becomes evident. The neck shows signs of cumulative damage, with the skin becoming loose and marked by horizontal wrinkles called “tree rings.” Dark spots become more prominent, and the eye area can show noticeable crepiness, sagging, puffiness and more pronounced dark circles in addition to a “drooping” upper eyelid. Skin loses its youthful volume and lift due to a loss of natural cushioning, and skin dryness is more pronounced as the external barrier is compromised, oil production slows and internal moisture levels drop. Cell turnover slows dramatically, and dead skin cells remain on the skin's surface which can dull the complexion and make pores more noticeable. The thickness of the skin is also impacted, and as it becomes thinner it's more easily irritated. Typically this occurs in an age range of above 50 years of age.
Current products on the market either do not effectively address ageing, and pigmentation problems, and/or they have skin irritating effects.